WE’RE STILL LOOKING FOR rain and not finding any. So, not one to fly in the face of providence, I went white-water rafting down Keystone Canyon along with John and Jan and eleven other hardy souls. It was so hot beneath all the rain gear and boots and life jackets that it was a positive relief to get hit in the face with what our boatman called a glacial facial.

The river was swift and rough, fed by waterfall after waterfall, the Sluice Box, the Horse’s Tail, and the inevitable Bridal Veil, all of which provides world-class ice climbing when frozen. Back to the ship by noon and the rest of the day was spent on the aft deck, working on my sunburn.

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