Category: Alaska Traveler

The petroglyphic, pterodactylish figure being slowly revealed by a thin drift of silvery sand

IT IS A MARTIAN LANDSCAPE. A cliff descends from a dark sky, crowned with Rushmore-like heads, if Mt. Rushmore had been carved by Easter Islanders, and then erodes into a delicate lacework frame of what could be either the remains of a condominium for little green men or just the remains of a dear departed…

Read more The petroglyphic, pterodactylish figure being slowly revealed by a thin drift of silvery sand

I remember the shock of recognition I suffered the first time I saw a totem pole, with the S’s and U’s and ovals of the Southeast girls’ bracelets repeated in cedar logs of wood ten, twenty, forty feet high

WHEN I WAS IN school at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, you could always tell the girls from Southeast by the fabulous silver bracelets they wore, exquisite, glowing pieces carved with Tlingit and Haida and Tsimshian symbols. It was then that I first learned the legend of Raven stealing the sun, the moon and the…

Read more I remember the shock of recognition I suffered the first time I saw a totem pole, with the S’s and U’s and ovals of the Southeast girls’ bracelets repeated in cedar logs of wood ten, twenty, forty feet high

Thunderfoot

THERE ARE LOTS OF reasons to go to the Alaska State Fair in Palmer every year. Turkey legs and crab cakes and cream puffs. The Elks’ Rat Race. The giant cabbages. The Scheer Lumberjack Show, where my friend Rhonda Sleighter can sigh over Fred “The Silver Fox” Scheer’s biceps. Yodeling along with Hobo Jim at…

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While it is difficult to take notes while maintaining a death grip on the raft, it is not impossible.

I’m in the back of the raft, also known as the “ejection seats” because of their tendency, upon the hitting of a rock, forcibly to launch the occupants into orbit. “One hand for the boat,” Mom always said when we lived on the Celtic, and while it is difficult to take notes while maintaining a…

Read more While it is difficult to take notes while maintaining a death grip on the raft, it is not impossible.

“The mountain’s out.” Which mountain? Well, obviously, you don’t live here.

ON A SUNNY DAY in southcentral Alaska, an official indicator of just how nice a day it is is, “The mountain’s out.” Which mountain? Well, obviously, you don’t live here. “The mountain” is of course, Denali, all 20,320 feet of it. A hundred miles from Anchorage, it looms up substantially on the northern horizon nonetheless.…

Read more “The mountain’s out.” Which mountain? Well, obviously, you don’t live here.